The Namahh Edit

Copenhagen has firmly established itself as a beacon for sustainable fashion, not just through discourse, but through the implementation of concrete, mandatory standards. At the heart of this movement is Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW), which has pioneered a framework that is increasingly being adopted by other major fashion weeks globally.

While Copenhagen is renowned for its broader urban sustainability initiatives, the “Copenhagen standard” in fashion refers specifically to the Sustainability Requirements that brands must meet to participate in CPHFW’s official show schedule. These are not merely guidelines; they are mandatory criteria designed to push the industry towards more responsible practices.

The CPHFW Sustainability Requirements

First introduced in January 2020, CPHFW’s Sustainability Requirements represented a revolutionary step in the fashion industry. They aimed to transform Copenhagen Fashion Week into an agenda-setting platform that uses its influence to accelerate sustainability efforts.

Critically, these requirements underwent significant revisions in 2024, with the updated framework becoming the mandatory admission criteria for brands on the official show and presentation schedule as of January 2025. These revisions reflect industry developments, learnings from previous years, and close observations of the evolving EU policy landscape, setting an even higher bar for participants.

The framework is holistic, encompassing six key focus areas:

1. Strategic direction: Brands must demonstrate a formally approved sustainability strategy, signed off by leadership, covering both environmental and social considerations.

2. Design: Encouraging circular design principles, emphasizing repairability, recyclability, reusability, and the inclusion of recycled content. Brands are also pushed to educate consumers on product care to extend garment lifespan.

3. Smart material choices: Brands must have a preferred materials list and demonstrate that at least 60% of their collection is either certified, made from preferred materials, or utilizes deadstock fabric. There’s also a strict requirement to be free from virgin fur, wild animal skins, and feathers (exotics).

4. Working conditions: Adherence to international labor standards and codes of conduct is paramount. This includes due diligence in the supply chain, fair wage tracking, anti-discrimination policies, and establishing complaint mechanisms for employees.

5. Consumer engagement: Brands are required to educate and inform their customers about their sustainability practices on at least two platforms, aligning with principles of the Green Claims Directive.

6. Showcase production: CPHFW itself leads by example and requires participating brands to adhere to strict zero-waste principles for their shows, including eliminating single-use plastics and renting props to minimize waste.

Impact and Global Adoption

The rigorous nature of CPHFW’s standards has not only elevated the sustainability performance of brands participating in Copenhagen but has also inspired broader industry change.

CPHFW’s CEO, Cecilie Thorsmark, has consistently emphasized that these are minimum standards, designed to continuously push brands forward. Following Copenhagen’s lead, several other prominent fashion weeks and councils have adopted or committed to implementing CPHFW’s Sustainability Requirements. Notably, this includes:

London Fashion Week (LFW): The British Fashion Council (BFC) confirmed that LFW would adopt CPHFW’s framework, starting with a pilot phase for its NEWGEN emerging talent program in 2025, with full implementation across all NEWGEN brands by January 2026. LFW also followed Copenhagen’s lead in banning exotic skins.

Amsterdam Fashion Week (AFW): AFW has partnered with CPHFW to implement the requirements, with a pilot phase in early 2025 and full implementation by September 2026.

Berlin Fashion Week (BFW): BFW has also joined forces with CPHFW to roll out the Sustainability Requirements, making them a mandatory criterion for shows.

Oslo Runway: The Norwegian Fashion Hub and Oslo Runway were also early adopters of the framework.

By setting these clear, comprehensive, and increasingly stringent criteria, Copenhagen Fashion Week is not just showcasing sustainable fashion; it is actively shaping the future of the industry, fostering a common language and pushing for measurable progress across the global fashion landscape. This collective movement aims to hold brands accountable and encourage more sustainable practices from concept to catwalk, setting a true “Copenhagen standard” for responsible fashion.